All you wanted to know about jeans, but afraid asking, denim dictionary updates



Denim dictionary updates November 2013, following terms added; antique effect – Buddy Lee-dry denimghost clawsJacob DavisJapanese crush-pocket labels – Levis vintage jeans -Levi’s type I jacket (506XX)Levi’s type II jackets (506XX)Levi’s Strauss Type III jackets (trucker jacket) – Levi saddle man.


Antique jeans effect


An antique effect means that denim finish achieved by sanding, washing and by hand making new jeans look aged. Due to ring spun yarn personality the surface is never without irregularities,  sometimes these small details make the denim look almost vintage. The process of making an antique look made by hand, especially Italian denim handcrafted is widely known for their skills. A.P.C Jeans

Buddy Lee

Buddy Lee dolls

Buddy Lee  introduced in 1920 by denim brand Lee and is a ceramic doll wearing Lee’s overalls. The promotion grew in popularity, and later more garments, uniforms, etc. added. However, Lee stopped  producing the doll in 1962. Therefore, it has a become a sought-after  vintage object among collectors.  Lee Company is in the process of establishing a Lee Museum that will document Buddy’s life for all of his fans. To find out more visit his website; Buddy Lee

Dry Denim

Dry Denim Nudie

Dry jeans are another name for rigid or raw denim, unwashed with a deep indigo coloured. Jeans made of dry denim made too worn in order to fit perfectly adding the personal touch to the jeans. When wearing it a long time the uniqueness of indigodenim develops faded areas was the Jean’s folding creases. Therefore,  importance keeping them on for several months before washing will make the look nicer than  any other jeans whatever brands and price. However, read and follow guides is essential for making them perfect.

Ghost claws


Ghost claw is the name to describe blitz-like whitened lines on jeans made artificially in the finishing process. All these processes revolve around whitening

Jacob Davis


Jacob Davis was a tailor making work-wear from Nevada that after a complaint from customers whom the pocket torn easily apart invented to rivet the pocket corners on the pants; which increased the durability significantly. Later, he contacted Levi Strauss asked to take out a patent together and started making waist overalls. See dictionary rivets (copper)

Japanese Crush

Japanese Crush processing. . Design Kenneth buddha Jeans

Crush is the name as a processing method introduced by labels like Sweet Caramel,  which combines paint-stains and aperture-boring.

Pocket labels

Levi Strauss pocket labels 2000. Farrow Design, Kenneth Levi Strauss

Pocket labeling or label is most often a cardboard placed on the back pocket of a jean (usually right) attached  to the purpose of communicating LOT number, style, size, washes, etc. and in addition used as a blank canvas for brand communication as logos and slogans. See Denim Dictionary

Levi’s Vintage Clothing (LVC)

LVC, Levi's Vintage Clothing

Levi’s Vintage Clothing is replicas of their most iconic jeans and historically significant garments from the past. It is more than 120 years since Levi Strauss introduced the first  and the original denim jeans and  due to incredible interest for Levi Strauss long history, vintage clothing and American pop culture decided Levi Strauss 1996 to introduce LVC (Levi Strauss Vintage Clothing). The garments taken from the Levi Strauss & Co. Archives, made with exactly the same details, craftsmanship, fabrics, sundries, original labels  and packaging. LVC has been a great influence on the growing interest for vintage clothing, even though hard-core vintage fans feel using the term is misleading for most people differentiating between replica vintage and original vintage clothing.  Levi Strauss Vintage story started in 1971 when they decided to change the red tab letters from capital to small, every garment before is regarded vintage. Changed due to introduction of the batwing carrying small letters as the founders name Levi Strauss

Levi’s type I jacket (506XX)

Type I Levi's vintage jacket. Owner Kenneth at buddha Jeans

1900 Levi’s Type I Jacket introduced  in the early 1900’s with LOT 506XX (added later as 501 was the first LOT number), a detail was the cinch-back, called “clinchers” with a silver buckle, later replaced with bronze. The jacket is also known as The First Edition with LOT number 506XX regarded as one of the most iconic denim garments in Jean’s history. The jacket has a left-side  breast pocket and a pleated front. The first version didn’t have a pocket flap, which was added onto later models. In addition, The red tab  introduced  1936 as one of the most well-known Levi’s trademarks.

Levi’s type II jackets (506XX)

Levi's Type II vintage replica jacket

In 1953 introduces Levi Strauss Co. a new version of the classic First Edition jacket (type II, LOT 566XX) The jacket has kept the details carried from type, I. However, the most significant and visually difference was the added front pocket.  The raw denim fabric used in the “type II”  is stiff and the wearer needs to wear it in. Recommended do not wash the jacket unless you have too as the indigo colours to naturally fade around Jean wrinkles, which make the look outstanding. The quality plus no washing will keep the jacket durable and longer lasting. If you choose to sell the jacket, value will certainly double price you once paid. If you need to wash it, however, use cold to low temperature, mild soap. Preferably follow the guidelines found on the Internet, web sites as have  incredible knowledge of raw denim. There is a guide on the blog as well; however, about how to wash and handle a “shrink to fit 501 Jean.” How to put your soul into a Levi’s 501 shrink to fit jean?

Levi’s Strauss Type III jackets (trucker jacket)

Levi's Type III jacket also known as trucker jacket. Owner Kenneth buddha Jeans

In the 1960, Levi Strauss introduces a radically new version of the Type II jackets with the LOT number 557XX, by most people known as the trucker jacket.  The most significantly difference visually; narrower and pointy front pockets, seams go from the pockets and down. Creating a fitter body look. Look fitter Trend wise a design for a brand-new  youth culture in 1960’s and 1970s. A slimmer look attracts girls taste of fashion and developing a segment for denim market.  The increased demand makes Levi Strauss introduce another version of regular basic trucker jacket named slim fit Trucker Jacket. In addition, the Trucker jacket is last carrying a Red Tab big E, after 1971 Levi Strauss changed the capital letter’s red tab capital letter to  small, due to introduction  of the batwing logo. Read more about LVC

Levi’s saddle man

Levi's Saddle Man

Levi Strauss Saddle man was a promotion distributed to the retailers and introduced in 1940. The cowboy statue is one of the first promotions from the brand and is today a rare collector’s items. A  Levi Strauss Saddle man in good conditions is hard to find and the price thereafter.




Kenneth Lyngaas
Sustainable fashion designer & eco-philosopher Sustainable fashion dedicated the twenty-first century green living, design for change through system thinking, eco philosophy, spirituality and sustainability. Site made with passion for people who loves fashion and care for the environment.
Kenneth Lyngaas
Kenneth Lyngaas
Kenneth Lyngaas
sustainableFASHION// dedicated the twenty-first century sustainable community and living. Every day, I deliver selected news on Eco design across the Internet. Most people appreciate an update without searching latest news themselves. Therefore, it’s already served. Don’t miss it, subscribe!